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Anti-aging agents grace the shelves in department stores, discount stores, even behind the pharmacy counter. So what’s the difference among these products? Do they work? Are they right for you? Here’s a guide to some of the latest products in the fight against cellular aging.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are agents that protect the skin from damage caused by normal biochemical reactions. Various factors, such as inflammation, irritation, exercise, sun exposure and air pollution can cause the creation of free radicals. These free radicals can contribute to the aging process by damaging healthy skin cells. Antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E, fight these free radicals. Cosmetic companies conduct studies to determine the most effective way to deliver these antioxidants to the skin. Until five years ago, most dermatologists believed the skin could not absorb vitamins applied to the surface of the skin. Today, many companies are exploring ways to make these vitamins work in topical applications. Scientists say the intake of vitamins C and E in proper nutrition and supplements also help prevent cellular aging. Alpha-Hydroxy acids Whether we want to prevent future skin damage or minimize the appearance of existing fine lines, many of us have purchased a product touting the benefits of alpha-hydroxy acids. Some AHAs come from organic, natural sources such as sour milk, citrus fruits, or sugar cane. Other AHAs are manufactured. Samer Alaiti, M.D. is a skin rejuvenation dermatologist with a practice in Beverly Hills. Alaiti says manufactured AHAs are better regulated, more consistent, and show fewer impurities than naturally-occurring AHAs Alaiti also says alpha-hydroxy acids work to improve the skin’s moisture level and help exfoliation. When dead surface skin sloughs off, younger, healthier skin emerges. “Alpha-hydroxy acids are equally important for treating photoaging (the skin’s aging due to the sun) and for treating deteriorated skin as a preventive measure and for maintenance,” Alaiti says. Regular, long-term users of AHAs report minimized fine lines as well as increased moisturization, firmness, and smoother skin as the exfoliation process continues, but a few words of caution: AHAs can increase your sensitivity to the sun, so make sunscreen part of your regimen. And, be sure to carefully consider the source of alpha-hydroxy acids. “Not all alpha-hydroxy acids are equal,” Alaiti says. Variations exist in many areas, including acid concentration, PH (degree of acidity) formulation base, and additive content. That means a higher concentration of AHAs does not necessarily indicate a better product. But, as Alaiti tells us, “AHA products sold over the counter tend to be in lower concentrations than AHAs sold in doctor’s offices and thus less potent.” He says it’s important to buy AHAs from a company that can substantiate its claims with scientific data. This is especially important since the effects of AHA’s are not immediate. The benefits of these chemicals are moderate and noticeable only with consistent use.
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